My father decided to go to the beach on thursay and come back on saturday, however, it rained so we went on friday. We went to a beach called Juquehy in the north coast of São Paulo. I was kind of tired, didn't have that CRAVING to go to the beach, however, I went. I woke up, made my bag, two shorts, and three T-shirts, thjree underwear, my keel, leash, wax(for the board), and my good and old havaianas. I put yellow in her case, and strapped her to the rack of the car. So we went. Didn't get any traffic, for we were going against most of the people, who were coming back from carnival. We got tjere at about mid day, left our bags at our rooms, my pop made some sandwiches while I ajusted the leash and the keel to my board( I was still kind of sleepy). I ate a sandwich, and we walked down to the beach. The moment I saw the surfing conditions, that whole loving surfing/beach sensation came back. I was awaken. I wakes my board, and went in. The sea was big, whith waves of about 1.5 meters with bigger waves when the series came in. Yellow nd I tried to pass the breaking waves, and foam, which was really hard, and we were pushed back nearly the whole way top the beach at one point. However, eventually we made it. There were about four or five people surfing, and I was there. While the waves came, I would only feel the fear of paddling into one, but not do anything. about half an hour later I went into one. the wave closed on top of me, and I was thrown into the bottom. When I came up again, I jumped on the board and paddled back. Now that I had already felt it, it was easier. Suddenly, a wave opening right next to me, a big one, came. Even though it opened to the left, I went in. At the rate I would speed down the wave, the wave would grow behind me. I heard the noise of the wave breaking right at my side, and I was still surfing. I surfed it, and close to the end, it got me. It was FANTASTIC! On the next day, waves were much smaller, and we took the camera to rake some pics. It was also really cool, though it didn't feel nearly as close as it felt while facing the big waves, and the adrenaline was much smaller. I surfed until my leash broke, and by that ime, it was close to the end of the day, so I took yellow back, gave her a "non salt water bath", and took her keel of, and put her into the sack. We hit the rode at 6, and got to São Paulo at eight. It was a perfect jaunt. I intend to do this again many times, for even though it is for a short period of time, it is something different, and really nice.
P.S: The fotos I put here are the first ones I am in, they are mine, and they were taken in the second day, when waves were much smaller than the first day.
No comments:
Post a Comment